In the past, sending used clothes to the Third World was considered a charitable act, but now it has become an environmental and social issue. France, Sweden, and Denmark proposed a ban on the export of used clothing from the EU, which was discussed at the EU Environment Council on March 25. The African Used Clothes Organization said the ban would affect the livelihoods of millions of people and lobbied EU countries not to support the proposal.
Clean up your own trash
With the rise of fast fashion, the rate of clothing discarding has also accelerated. Where does this discarded clothing go? According to a 2023 analysis by the European Environment Agency (EEA), EU textile waste exports have tripled in 20 years, reaching 1.7 million tons in 2019, with 46% going to Africa and 41% to Asia. Some used clothing can be resold, some is downgraded to industrial rags or stuffing, and some ends up in open landfills or is simply discarded.
On the 25th, at a meeting of the European Union's Environment Council, France, Denmark, and Sweden jointly proposed using the Basel Convention to regulate the import and export of used clothing, requiring the importing country's consent before export. The Basel Convention is a United Nations treaty regulating the transnational movement of hazardous waste, specifically targeting waste transferred from developed countries to the developing world.
The French Ministry of Environment stated, "Africa should not become a dumping ground for fast fashion." Reuters reported that Denmark's Deputy Permanent Representative to the European Union, Soren Jacobsen, stated at the meeting that the export of textile waste to developing countries harms the local environment, society, and health, and that the EU should cease such practices. The French representative also stated that a ban would help strengthen the EU's own textile recycling system.
African businesses say proposals will affect the livelihoods of millions
Swedish Climate Minister Romina Pourmokhtari traveled to Kenya in late February for the United Nations Environment Assembly. She made a special trip to the Nairobi River to learn about the issue of discarded used clothing. Clean Up Kenya, a local environmental organization accompanying her, noted that Kenya imports 200,000 tons of used clothing annually, often soiled, damaged, or ill-fitting, requiring alterations before wear, generating significant waste. However, the local disposal system is inadequate, leaving the Nairobi River as a garbage dump – a scene the minister witnessed.
The EU's proposal has alarmed importers of used clothing, who are actively meeting with representatives from other EU countries in hopes of blocking the proposal. Reuters reports that Teresia Wairimu Njenga, president of the Kenya Secondhand Clothes Recycling Association, noted that at least two million people in Kenya rely on the secondhand clothing resale industry, and the proposal will impact local livelihoods.
He tried hard to clarify that not all second-hand clothes are garbage. According to the alliance's survey in Nairobi last year (2023), only 1% to 2% of old clothes become waste.
The CEO of the Changing Market Foundation immediately responded on LinkedIn, urging everyone to see through the lobbyists' intentions and verify the data. Changing Markets also conducted a 2023 investigation into the issue of used clothing. The report indicated that 20% to 50% of used clothing imported into Africa ends up as landfill or incineration. The European Union exports up to 37 million pieces of used clothing to Kenya annually, many of which are too old and dirty to be sold.
The social and environmental challenges of secondhand clothing
Secondhand clothing creates jobs, but it also hinders the development of local brands. Last year, Kenya's president mandated that uniforms and shoes for the military and police be manufactured locally, with young people taking over the production. The local clothing and textile industry sees this as a great opportunity to establish a market for "Made in Kenya" products.
Clean Up Kenya, a local environmental organization in Kenya, acknowledges that millions of Africans rely on the secondhand clothing industry for their livelihoods and that addressing this issue requires producer responsibility. While the French proposal directly targets exports, they support it, hoping it will spark discussion on secondhand clothing and ultimately lead to solutions that benefit the planet.
References：
*Reuters (March 14, 2024), France proposes EU ban on exports of used clothes
*Reuters (March 26, 2024), Kenya’s second-hand clothes traders lobby against EU export restrictions
*DW（2023年10月23日），Kenya: President Ruto pushes for locally-made clothing
*European Environment Agency (February 27, 2023), EU exports of used textiles in Europe’s circular economy
*Changing markets foundation（2023年7月5日），Waste Framework Directive a missed opportunity for textile recycling, but a glimmer of hope for reducing clothing dumped on the Global South
*Clean Up Kenya（2024年3月19日)，France, Sweden, and Denmark Propose Ban on EU Second-Hand Clothing Exports
*Clean Up Kenya（2024年3月2日)，Sweden’s Minister for Environment and Climate Change visits ‘Trashion’ Ground Zero
*Clean Up Kenya（2023年11月28日)，Mitumba Association of Kenya denies Second Hand Clothing imported into Kenya has any Environmental Impact
Source: Environmental Information Centre
